Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound food heritage and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has always characterized its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and demanding. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation do not want to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
